The Best Roman Ruins in Jordan – Visiting Jerash with Kids

Located less than an hour away from Jordan’s capital, the Roman ruins of Jerash are some of the most beautiful and well-preserved Roman ruins in the entire country. Its intriguing combination of ancient temples, arches, and even the ruins of a hippodrome make it an excellent outing to take with kids, both to give them a taste of Roman history and as a way of spending some time outside.

A Brief History of Jerash, Jordan

The city of Jerash has a long history and the earliest evidence of human settlement there dates all the way back to the Neolithic era. However, as a city, Jerash was not founded until the time of Alexander the Great during the 4th century BCE. However, it wasn’t until a few hundred years later, under Roman rule, that Jerash began to thrive.

Similar to the way Petra worked in the south, it was a major trade hub for the area, and traders traveling between Europe and Asia would stop there to sell their wares or to restock. This led Jerash to great economic prosperity and it was built up with Roman-style roads and shops, temples, and more.   

It continued to thrive, first under the Romans, then the Muslims of the Umayyad Caliphate, until a huge earthquake occurred in the year 749 CE. After that, Jerash’s importance waned and it became a mostly deserted set of ruins. 

Is the Archeological Site of Jerash, Jordan worth visiting?

Despite the damage from the earthquake and the disuse of the site for centuries, Jerash remains some of the best-preserved Roman ruins to be found anywhere in the world. That makes Jerash an excellent place to take a historical or archeological field trip with kids!

The great condition of the ruins means that kids can get a real feel for how Roman cities were set up. Items like the Nymphaeum are great for talking about city planning and how ancient peoples got water to their populations. Jerash also has some really cool archeological finds that I personally had never seen before, like a water-powered stone cutter located just south of the Temple of Artemis. It was originally used for cutting the stone that makes up the city, but we used it to talk about engineering.

The site features multiple important temples, a beautifully preserved colonnade (that my kids loved running across), a large hippodrome, and more. The combination of so many fantastic Roman ruins in a single place easily makes Jerash worth the visit.

As an added bonus, the entirety of Jerash is outdoors (except the museum), making it an excellent field trip for families looking to get some sunshine!

What Should I See in Jerash, Jordan?

Jerash is filled to the brim with amazing archeological sites, and each of them is worth taking a look at. Be sure to start your tour of Jerash on the Southern end of the site. The Visitor Center is located near the midpoint of Jerash, but there isn’t a convenient entrance there, so start at the market on the southern end. 

At the end of the market, there is an entrance booth where you can buy your tickets (cash only), and then you can start your visit in earnest.

Hadrian’s Arch

Hadrian’s Arch is the first of the monuments that you’ll see on your visit. It’s a monumental arch located in the southern portion of Jerash that was built in 131 CE by the Roman emperor Hadrian to commemorate his visit to the city.

The arch is made of white marble and stands around 70 feet (21.5 m) tall. It has three arches, each of which is decorated with carved reliefs. 

Today, Hadrian’s Arch remains one of the most popular tourist destinations in Jerash.

Hippodrome

The Hippodrome in Jerash was built in the early third century CE and consisted of a large, oval-shaped arena surrounded by a series of porticos and grandstands, and was capable of seating up to 17,000 spectators. 

The arena was originally built for the purpose of hosting horse and chariot races, though it was later used for gladiatorial fights, and parts of it were removed to make repairs to the city wall. 

I have heard that there are occasionally chariot race reenactments held in the hippodrome, however, we did not get the opportunity on the day we visited. 

The South Gate Jerash

Jerash’s South Gate is one of the original entrances to the walled portion of the city of Jerash. The gate was likely constructed around the year 130 CE. 

The gate consists of three large arches made of white marble with elaborate carvings covering their surfaces. While the gate today does have large, wooden doors in each arch to keep out trespassers, they are significantly smaller than the originals would have been and do not cover the entryway completely. 

Just as the South Gate was used to keep out intruders in antiquity, so it is today. This is where the guards will check that you bought your ticket before allowing you to continue on, as well as where you can hire a tour guide if you are so inclined. 

Temple of Zeus

Once you are inside the South Gate, the next major destination is the Temple of Zeus, located to your left and up a small hill.

The Temple of Zeus was a beautiful, ornate temple, and the largest of the temples found in Jerash. It was built on the summit of the hill so it could look down over the rest of the city and is still one of the highest points from which you can look out over the landscape. A narrow staircase in the side of the Temple allows visitors to climb the wall to get a better view, but if you’re visiting Jerash with kids you might want to skip it. The staircase is fairly uneven and rough, and there are no safety barriers in place at the top. Still, the view is great!

Much of the Temple of Zeus lies in ruins today, but the large pillars and walls that remain and the prime hilltop location both hint at its former glory. 

The Southern Theater

The Southern Theater is the better-preserved, but smaller, of the two theaters found in Jerash.

It was constructed during the rule of Emperor Domitian and could seat up to 3,000 people. 

Similar to other Roman theaters, it was built in such a way as to amplify the acoustics on the stage so that speakers could be heard throughout the theater without needing to raise their voices. 

The Oval Plaza

The Oval Plaza is a large (90mx80m) oval-shaped plaza located at the end of the Cardo Maximus in Jerash. The plaza is outlined by a set of ionic columns that give it an imposing air, as well as making it one of the most photogenic spots in all of Jerash.  

Cardo Maximus

The Cardo Maximus was the main thoroughfare in the city of Jerash. It served as the main artery through the city and provided access to many of the city’s most important features, such as the Oval Plaza, the Nymphaeum, and local markets that lined the street’s edges.

It runs north-south through the middle of Jerash, and its central location in the city made it a critical part of Jerash’s infrastructure. Even today it remains the easiest way to move from area to area within Jerash. 

The Nymphaeum

The Nymphaeum in Jerash was a beautiful, ornate building that served as a public water fountain for the city. It consisted of a large stone pool surrounded by marble columns and an intricate facade carved with figures of the water nymphs that give the structure its name. 

Behind the facade, the Nymphaeum served as a collection point for the city’s water supply. Fountains carved into the front gave public access to the water, while covered canals allowed water to flow to other, smaller fountains along the Cardo Maximus. 

It’s a beautiful structure and definitely worth a stop during your day in Jerash. 

The Temple of Artemis

The Temple of Artemis in Ephesus was considered one of the Wonders of the Ancient World, and while this is not that temple, it remains a fascinating example of Roman architecture. 

The pathway leading up to the temple from the Cardo begins with the Propylaeum, or gateway, to the sanctuary. It was a grand entryway consisting of three monumental openings and a flight of stairs leading up the hill to the temple proper. 

The Temple of Artemis is the second largest structure in Jerash, next to the public baths. It included most of the space on the top of the hill. It had a ritual bath before the entry to the sanctuary, and four porticoes, but the centerpiece was the temple that still stands at the center.  

An interesting feature that remains today is the swaying columns. If you look closely at the columns of the temple, you can see them swaying slightly in the wind, which is quite disconcerting until you realize that they have remained standing for centuries. 

Our kids had a hard time seeing the swaying motion of the columns so a nearby guide stuck a spoon into a crack between two of the columnar sections. As the wind swayed the column, it would press down on the end of the spoon which made it wiggle. It really helped the kids to see what was happening.

The swaying motion of the columns is thought to be an intentional motion, designed to help the temple withstand earthquakes. And as they are still standing despite the earthquake that destroyed Jerash, perhaps they did their job!

North Tetrapylon of Jerash

The North Tetrapylon is a medium-sized structure built at the intersection of the Cardo Maximus and the northern decumanus, or the east-west running avenue in the northern part of Jerash. 

North Gate of Jerash

The North Gate marks the northern boundary to the ruins of ancient Jerash. It was built around the same time as the Roman road to Pella and was commissioned by Claudius Severus. 

Structurally, it has a lot in common with the South Gate, with three large archways that would have contained large wooden doors that could be closed to keep people out of the city. Today, the gate remains closed and impassable. 

The Northern Theater

The Northern Theater of Jerash is one of the better-preserved Roman theaters in the entire world. It was originally smaller than it is today and was used for city council meetings and smaller performances. However, it was expanded to seat up to 2000 people in 235 CE and became a venue for poetry recitations and music. 

The Archeological Museum of Jerash

The Archeological Museum of Jerash is a bit different from the other things you can see in Jerash since it is a collection of smaller archeological finds from the surrounding area instead of the ruins themselves. 

The museum has only a single exhibition hall, and the exhibits inside are arranged chronologically from the Neolithic age through the Islamic eras, to give an idea of the overarching history of the site.   

Entry to the museum is included in your entry to the archeological site, so it’s definitely worth a look!

What else do I need to know about visiting Jerash, Jordan?

Jerash is located only about 50 kilometers north of Amman, so it’s an easy day trip for tourists who are staying in the capital.

How do you get to Jerash?

The best way to get to Jerash is by car. The city is well-connected to the Jordanian highway system, and it is a relatively easy drive from Amman. 

If you don’t have access to your own car, it is fairly easy to hire a taxi or get an Uber coming from Amman. We personally took an Uber from Amman to Jerash, and that worked well enough. However, there were not any Uber drivers available in Jerash to bring us back. 

Our Uber ride from Amman to Jerash cost a little over JOD 18 ($25) for the 45-minute trip. 

Even without Uber, getting home was easy enough. There will be taxi drivers waiting in the parking lot just outside the archeological site. Flag one down and negotiate your price, and you’re on your way!

Of course, if you’d prefer to drive yourself, rentals in Jordan are affordable, and driving in Jordan is pretty easy. 

What’s the best time to visit Jerash, Jordan?

The best time to visit Jerash is in either the spring or the fall when the weather is mild. Summers in Jordan can be very hot, which can make the walk around Jerash unpleasant while winters can be cold and wet.

We visited in March and found the weather to be perfect as long as the sun was up, but it got fairly chilly at night, and it even snowed while we were in Amman. Remember that central heating and cooling aren’t common in most places in Jordan, and plan your trip accordingly. 

How much does it cost to get into Jerash?

Entry into Jerash costs 20 Jordanian dinars (about 28 US dollars). This includes access to all of the main sites. Jerash is also one of the places included in the Jordan Pass, so if you have it, definitely remember to bring it with you! 

There are official licensed tour guides at the site for those who want one, or you can find private tours through Viator or Get Your Guide. Our kids like to wander at their own pace, so we skipped the guide this time around, but including an expert in your field trip can be a great way to make it more educational!

How long do you need to visit Jerash?

You could easily spend a whole day exploring Jerash! 

However, if you only have a limited amount of time, you can see most of the bigger archeological sites in just a couple of hours. Keep in mind that Jerash includes a fair amount of walking if you want to get to some of the further sites like the Temple of Artemis, so be prepared for that. 

My family spent around 3 or 4 hours there in all, and we saw both the Temple of Zeus and Temple of Artemis, explored the Cardo Maximum, walked through Hadrian’s Arch, and glanced over the Hippodrome. There was definitely more to do, though, so we may be back! 

Where should I stay in Jerash?

It’s easy enough to make a day trip of it from a central place like Amman, but if you’re wanting to get an early morning start to your sightseeing, there are a number of hotels and guesthouses in Jerash. 

Hadrian’s Gate Hotel is about the closest place you can stay, since it sits just across the street from the archeological site but it’s worth checking around to find the exact place you’re looking for. 

Overall, we loved getting the chance to explore the ruins of Jerash with kids! Not only does it have some of the most beautiful Roman ruins that we’ve ever had the chance to visit, but it was also an amazing chance to spend a day outside seeing places that we had previously only heard about through books or in museums.

The ease of access, combined with the amazing state of the ruins themselves, makes this one a trip not to miss.